Rounding the Horn

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Wednesday, 7 March:   Woke up early this morning feeling excited about our scenic cruise of Cape Horn, expecting furious winds and fearsome waves!

Yes, we got some very strong winds at 80mph for a short while, but the outside decks were quickly placed off limits until the ship moved into the shelter of the land. You can see how changeable the weather was though, even in such good conditions; alternating from rainy and foggy to sunny and blue sky.

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Lighthouse and Memorial for Lost Sailors

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The captain kept up some commentary along the way and was so happy with the smooth conditions, that after obtaining permission from the Chilean authorities, took us past Puerto Williams which he had only been to once before, himself, so it was quite a treat.  Very scenic.

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The Horn is on most people’s bucket lists and we were no exception, so it was a nice achievement, once reserved for 19th century gold seekers en route to the gold fields in California.

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Even though we didn’t get the rough waters that I was expecting, it was still an amazing experience.

Falkland Islands

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After another day at sea yesterday, this morning, 6 March, we arrived in the Falkland Islands where we used tenders to reach Port Stanley.  We split up for the first excursion as I wasn’t particularly interested in going to see the battlefields, which turned out to be just some unmarked hills.  (So I don’t feel that I missed out on much there!)

Later, we joined up on the shore for another tour (which in retrospect we could have done on our own) around the town and were dropped off at the Historic Dockyard and Museum.  Unfortunately, this meant that we had to miss out on visiting the penguin colony as it was quite a distance from the ship.

The museum was interesting with film, audio and interactive displays showing how the Islanders were affected when they found themselves in the middle of a war in 1982.  The Falklands have also been the key to the exploration of Antarctica and the southern ocean and the centerpiece of the gallery is the Reclus Hut which served as a home to a survey team from the Falklands in the 1950’s.

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The Islands lie 350 miles off the southern tip of Argentina, but the food and the people are very British.  I spoke to some English ladies who have lived in the Islands all their lives, and even though they had all travelled to England, much preferred to live in the Falklands.  I found it very isolated and boring, to be honest.  Happy to say that I’ve seen it and to move on!

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

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Yesterday was a sea day and a chance to wind down.  Today, Sunday 4 March, we were off to see dolphins and sea lions in the icy Atlantic Ocean.

Next to the ship was a very, very long pier which we had to walk along to board an RIB – Rigid Inflatable Boat – for a ride to the Punta Loma Nature Reserve about 40 minutes away.  The Reserve was created in 1967 to protect South America’s only permanent sea lion colony and is home to about 600 sea lions.

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We were very lucky to be there at high tide, otherwise we probably would not have seen many.  As it was, the sea was very calm, the weather great and with a perfect high tide, the boat was able to position itself for plenty of photo taking opportunities of sea lions and cormorants.  The sea lions were not concerned that the boat was so close to them and were so noisy, I don’t know how anyone gets any sleep!

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On the way back, the captain looked for dolphins, but we were out of luck.  Although there seem to be plenty of dolphins in these waters, all the sightings have been some distance from the ship.

Seeing the sea lions in their natural setting was one of the highlights of our trip so far.